Austin's ARC shot

Astroanimas FA 9/4/16

Austin Pitch 1 5.11c

Austin Pitch 2 5.10a

The Slab Pitch 4 5.11b

Austin on The Roof Pitch 5 5.12a

The Dihedral Pitch 6 5.11c

New Route Lower North Wall

Gold Star 5.11c/d 35m ****
An excellent pitch up the prominent gold face in the middle of the wall. Rap in 35m to a nice grassy ledge about 10-15 ft. above the ground or walk around to the base of the wall. The line ascends the face just right of the prominent prow and is excellent. The start is a little vegetated and can be wet in early season for about 20ft but is moderate, well protected and climbs cleanly. Above the rock is steep and clean. Climb through a small roof and up the vertical face to a large flake. Clip a bolt out left then move left and make difficult moves up the bulge (5.11). Alternatively, climb directly above the flake on good holds and traverse back left below a tiny tree (5.10-). A slightly run-out but easy section leads to a steep, gold face. The seam in the gold face is the crux (5.11 c/d) and leads to a traverse right to a final tricky bulge. 14 bolts + 1" (red Alien) and  2" (red Camalot). The crux top face can be avoided by moving left into a dihedral crack. FA Austin/RH 8/20/2016.

New Line via North Slabs 8/9/16

New pitches climbed with John:

1. Outward Bound Wall 1: 5.10, 30m ***, 4 bolts + gear to 2" to bolt anchors
2. North Slabs Approach: Easy Class 5, gear to 2", 70m to bolt anchors.
3. Up the corner and face to the Ubermensch Ledge, 5.7-8, 70m, ** gear to 2".
4. Blue Angel to the top.

Outward Bound Wall

7/17/16 New anchors on the ledge above Outward Bound Wall. New pitch bolted on Outward Bound Wall. New anchors allow a rappel down the North Slabs area: 35m, 60m, 60-70m.

New lines established 6/12/16

1). Top 2 pitches of the North Slabs Route
Pitch 5: 5.11b **** 35m. Ascends through the triple overhangs north of the Ubermensch slab.
Pitch 6: 5.10 20m A short pitch to the top.

2). Blue Angel: 5.11a **** 55m. Ascends the smoothest section of the face right of the second pitch of Ubermensch.

Elk Park Buttress 4/24/16

Post-season

Pulled all the gear out for winter. Minimal snow on the trail and climbing in the sun would have been great today.

2015 Season Summary

1. Established top anchors on Backdoor
2. Added anchor bolt to Der Schwartz Spur
3. New line between True Blonde and DSS.
4. Established multi-pitch line on Central Buttress
5. New 2 pitch direct line on MCR
6. New Wave Wall finish (bolted 7/11) Climbed by Kyle.
7. Added bolts to top pitch of Ubermensch
8. Big Link-ups 10-13 pitches
9. New line Uber Sector- Choujin

Last climbing 10/17/2015 this year?

New line established

10/17/15: Joel and Hiroki established a new 5.11+/5.12- line (Choujin) on the north-facing wall adjacent to the top pitch of Ubermensch.

9/19/15 Main Wall Linkup 13 pitches, V 5.11c, 2000ft

1. Central Buttress 1: 5.9 (RAP) 60m
2. South Slab Direct 1: 5.10+, 50m
3. South Slab Direct 2: 5.10b, 45m
4. Banzai 3: 5.10b, 57m
5. Banzai 4: 5.11c, 60m (RAP Banzai)
6. Banzai 1: 5.10+, 35m
7. Banzai 2: 5.10a, 35m (RAP)
8. Central Buttress 1: 5.9 (RAP) 60m
9. MCR Direct 1: 5.11a, 50m
10. MCR Direct 2: 5.11c, 55m
11. Traverse Class 4,  20m
12. Ubermensch 1: 5.11c, 20m
13. Ubermensch 2: 5.10a, 60m

 Austin/Roger 15.5 hrs car-car. Finished last pitch by headlamp.

Linkup of Main Wall Classic Pitches: 14 pitches, V, 5.11c, ~670m/~2200ft

1. South Slab Direct 1: 5.10+, 50m
2. South Slab Direct 2: 5.10b, 45m (RAP to bottom of Banzai)
3. Banzai 1: 5.10c, 35m
4. Banzai 2: 5.10a, 35m
5. Banzai 3: 5.10b, 57m
6. Banzai 4: 5.11c, 60m (RAP Banzai)
7. Mavericks 1: 5.9, 35m
8. Mavericks 2: 5.11b, 35m
9. Mavericks 3: 5.11b, 50m (RAP Mavericks)
10. Central Buttress 1: 5.9 (RAP) 60m
11. MCR Direct 1: 5.11a, 50m
12. MCR Direct 2: 5.11c, 55m (~20m traverse to Ubermensch)
13. Ubermensch 1: 5.11c, 20m
14. Ubermensch 2: 5.10a, 60m

New direct line for first 2 pitches of MCR. Tim gets first onsight of Ubermensch.

Gretchen and Angie send Banzai

Crest 5.13 Sent by Kyle 8/6/15

Kyle on Crest (photo:Joel)

Wave Wall

Work on the Wave Wall Finish begins with a strong red-point attempt by Kyle. Looks like a probable 5.13-.

Joel on The North Face of Elk Park Buttress 5.11c

Climbed all 7 Elk Park Buttress routes.

2015 Projects

1. Establish top anchors on Backdoor
2. Add anchor bolt to Der Schwartz Spur
3. Bolt line between True Blonde and DSS.
4. Establish multi-pitch line on Central Buttress
5. Add a complete line between Mavericks and South Slab (Black Line)
6. Establish a finish to Southern Slab through the Headwall
7. Establish multi-pitch line on the Outward Bound Wall and Northern Slabs
8. Direct line on Magic Carpet Ride and connect to Ubermensch
9. RP Wave Wall finish (bolted 7/11) Climbed by Kyle.
10. Mavericks direct 2nd pitch
11. Direct finish to North Face of EPB
12.  Add bolts to top pitch of Ubermensch

First day at the River Crag 6/7/15

Climbed 5 routes on Elk Park Buttress. Perfect except for a little rain and hail! The rock dries quickly though.

The left line on Elk Park Buttress makes for a sweet warm-up.

Sitting out the thunderstorm

First Big Snow

First snow this weekend. Probably done for the year at the River Crag.