Astroanimas III, 5.12a 245m/800ft 7 pitches ****



Astroanimas Upper Pitches and Rappel Route

An excellent outing and one of the best multi-pitch link-ups at the Crag. Several purely trad lines have been climbed in the area but may have some loose blocks. The line described has generally been cleared of blocks,  has good anchors and is well protected. The route starts near the river level and ascends the Lower North Wall, Outward Bound Wall and then a long easy pitch to a belay below a series of large overhangs that break up the smooth slabs above. The route continues directly through a series of roofs to the top of the cliff.

Approach: The base can be reached by walking to the bottom of the North Wall or by making three 60-70m rappels down to the bottom of the North Slabs and a 35m rap to the base of the North Wall. Anchors are in place for six 30-35m rappels from the top of Pitch 6 (a 70m rope is needed). The first rappel is about 20m and angles significantly skier's left to the anchors on top of Pitch 6 which cannot be seen from above.  It is also possible to walk (exposed) to the anchors atop Pitch 6.

Gear we used:
Aliens: green, yellow, red, orange
Alien Hybrids: blue/green, green-yellow, yellow/red
Camalots: green, red (2), gold
Stoppers: #10 Wild Country offset
Minimum 14 draws

FFA: AFW (led crux pitches)/RH 9/4/2016

Pitch 1: The Lower North Wall-Gold Star (5.11c 37m ****)



A quality pitch up the prominent gold face in the middle of the wall. Bolt anchors are in place on a ledge about 15ft below trees. From the bolts rap in 35m to a nice grassy ledge about 10-15 ft. above the ground or walk around to the base of the wall. The line ascends the face just right of the prominent prow. The start is a little vegetated and can be wet in early season for about 20ft but is moderate, well protected and climbs cleanly. Above the rock is steep and clean. Climb through a small roof and up the vertical face to a large flake. Clip a bolt out left then move left and make difficult moves up the bulge (5.11). Alternatively, climb directly above the flake on good holds and traverse back left below a tiny tree (5.10-). A slightly run-out but easy section leads to a steep, gold face. The seam in the gold face is the crux (5.11b/c) and leads to a traverse right to a final tricky bulge. 14 bolts + 1" (red Alien) and  2" (red Camalot). The crux top face can be avoided by moving left into a dihedral crack but requires additional gear. FA AFW/RH 8/20/2016.

A short walk up and rightward through trees leads to a broad face with multiple lines for the second pitch (Outward Bound Wall).

Pitch 2: OB One (5.10b/c 30m ***)
This route lies between a prominent black streak and a large tree on the ledge above. It is marked by a low bolt and four bolts high on the wall above. Good gear is found in the cracks between the bolts. Move right and into the thin crack at the first bolt. 5 bolts + Gear: Small Aliens to 1.5". Bolt anchors are on the ledge above. FA RH/JCS  8/9/16. Alternative pitches are possible.

Pitch 3: 5.8 70m ** The Traverse Pitch: Traverse leftward and upward from the belay along horizontal cracks staying on excellent, clean rock above a 4th class ramp (described below). Toward the end of the pitch move into the ramp to 2-bolt anchors below a smooth slab. Gear to 2". AFW/RH 9/2/17.

Original Pitch 3: Easy Class 5 70m
From the top of The Outward Bound Wall scramble down and left (south) across the ledge and then ascend a grassy Class 3-4 ramp and easy Class 5 terrain on good, solid rock below the polished slabs. A short, easy simul-climb may be needed with a 60m rope. A number of options up the slabs exist to the right. A set of bolt anchors are located about 60m from the belay and about 50m below a large 60 degree overhang. FA: RH/JCS 8/9/16

At the crux of the slab pitch

Pitch 4: 5.11b 25m ***
The Slab Pitch. Ascend the smooth slab directly above the anchors past three bolts-crux. Continue straight up to horizontal cracks and move through a small overhang. A bolt protects the moves onto the slab above. Continue up the slab to a grassy ledge. Bolt anchors are in place on the left side of the ledge. 4 bolts + gear to 2". FA AFW/RH 9/4/2016.

An alternative is to skip the crux roof pitch by continuing above the middle of the grassy ledge and bypass the large overhang on the right (there is one protection bolt on the slab below the roof). Above the overhang traverse back left to bolt anchors and Pitch 6. 5.9 60m Gear to 2" (7/2/17 RH/AFW).

Austin approaching the crux roof

Pitch 5: 5.12a 30m ****
The Roof Pitch. From the left side of the ledge ascend a polished slab (5.11) to the roof (we placed a bomber gray-yellow or red-yellow Alien at the roof).  Climb directly through the large roof-crux (one bolt) 5.12a or 5.11 A0. Continue 20ft on easy ground to a ledge and bolt anchors. 3 bolts + blue or blue/green, red-yellow and orange Aliens) FA: AFW 9/4/2016

Pitch 6: 5.11c 35m+ **** The Dihedral Pitch

The Dihedral Pitch

This is a phenomenal pitch with perfect rock and a fantastic position.
Start at a grassy ledge at the base of the slab below the triple overhangs (2 bolt anchors with rings).
Ascend the first right-facing dihedral on the left side of the polished slab (not the large corner further left). Pass two horizontal overhangs (5.11-). Gear: 3 bolts, Red or Gold Camalot, orange Alien/Green Camalot protect the dihedral. Move right and ascend the overhanging head-wall above past 2 bolts (crux 5.11c).
Once above the crux, place a yellow Alien and continue straight up the vertical face on solid rock rather than moving left to easy but potentially loose ground. Continue straight up to a shallow open book (gear to 2" including a red Alien near the top) to a small ledge just below a large sloping ledge with 2 bolt anchors with rings. It is a rope-stretcher 35m rappel from here to the anchors below.
Gear: 2 each: green, yellow, red, orange Aliens, Red Camalot (or substitute offset Aliens (blue-green, green-yellow, yellow-red). FA: AFW, RH 6/12/16. It is possible to move left along a crack to easy ground just before the crux but beware of loose rock.

Pitch 7: 5.10b/c 20m **
A short, clean face up and left past one bolt has a move or two of 5.10 and leads to tree or bolt anchors at the top. Can protect the 2nd with a green Camalot just above the crux. Could be combined with Pitch 6 if rope drag isn't too bad. Could use two more bolts one above and one below the existing bolt. FA: AFW, RH 6/12/16

The easiest walk off from here is to continue straight up about 50ft to a 15ft high overhanging rock alcove, traverse right about 50 ft. then switchback left along a ledge across broken ground.
Pass underneath a polished slab and continue up and left to meet the usual upper approach route to Banzai.