Central Buttress

The Central Buttress is the wide area which lies between the slabs of the Southern Dihedral and the Northern Dihedral and bisects the Main Wall. Several possible clean lines that will require bolts exist along the base. Several crack lines also exist. Unfortunately, the middle section is mostly blocky terrain. A final slab atop the Main Wall can be accessed from the Central Buttress. Some version of the Central Buttress may have been climbed during the Outward Bound era.

Central Buttress II, 5.9 200m **  
The Central Buttress route has the feel of a mountaineering route and has some loose rock in the middle section. Route finding in the middle section is tricky but it is possible to stay on solid rock and find good natural protection.

Foreshortened view Pitch 1

Pitch 1: 5.9 PG 60m ***  This is a long, fun pitch on excellent rock that requires a wide range of gear placements between intermittent bolts. Start at the base of the Central Buttress with a short 1-2" crack. Place gear at the top of the crack and find stopper placements on the easy slab to protect moves to the first bolt. Move right at the first bolt (crux). After the second bolt use the crack out left for protection but remain on the face to the right on solid face holds. Stay right on the face and look for gear placements rather than moving left to a large crack. A bolt protects a bulge. Continue up the face on good holds to a ledge and bolt anchors. 6 bolts + gear from small stoppers (DMM offsets and Wild Country Superlight Rocks work well) + cams (esp. Aliens) from  small to 2.5".
Pitch 2: 5.8 40m ** Move up about 15m to a ledge where the terrain steepens.Continue directly up the face, staying on solid rock and locating good cracks for gear placements to a belay ledge (needs anchor bolts?). Gear to 3".
Pitch 3: Easy Class 5 35m Climb above the belay and angle rightward up broken rock to a small ledge and 2 bolt belay (the belay is about 20ft right of a large detached block). For the original ascent a belay was established at the detached block, combining pitches 2 and 3 at 70m. This section requires good route finding to avoid loose rock.
Pitch 4: 5.8 60m ** This pitch ascends up and leftward staying to the right of the overhangs of the Banzai Amphitheater. Ascend clean rock to a ledge with trees and left to the top anchors of Banzai.
Alternatively, follow easy terrain up and right to a ledge with a tree below a roof.  Climb through the roof to a small ledge (gear belay above the overhang) and join the MCR Direct route for the final pitch. Full route, climbed 7/11/15 by John, Joel, Roger, finished via the top slab of MCR Direct.
 
50/50 II, 5.8 *This route ascends the lower, far right portion of the Central Buttress. Ascend the crack system just left of the Northern Dihedral for two pitches before traversing right to join MCR. An independent finish could continue up the edge of the dihedral to the top.
Pitch 1: 5.8 60m ** Ascend the crack system just left of the Northern Dihedral to a tree.
Pitch 2: Easy class 5. Continue up broken rock then move rightward to join MCR.