Central Buttress

The Central Buttress is the wide area which lies between the slabs of the Southern Dihedral and the Northern Dihedral and bisects the Main Wall. Several possible clean lines that will require bolts exist along the base. Several crack lines also exist. Unfortunately, the middle section is mostly blocky terrain but still has fun, moderate climbing. A final slab atop the Main Wall can be accessed from the Central Buttress. Some version of the Central Buttress may have been climbed during the Outward Bound era.

Central Buttress II, 5.9 200m **  
The Central Buttress route has the feel of a mountaineering route and has some loose rock in the middle section. Route finding in the middle section is tricky, but it is possible to stay on solid rock and find good natural protection.

Foreshortened view Pitch 1

Pitch 1: 5.9 PG 60m *** This is a long, fun pitch on excellent rock that requires a wide range of gear placements between intermittent bolts. Start at the base of the Central Buttress with a short 1-2" crack. Place gear at the top of the crack and find stopper placements on the easy slab to protect moves to the first bolt. Move right at the first bolt (crux). After the second bolt use the crack out left for protection but remain on the face to the right on solid face holds (a couple of bolts in this middle section would improve difficult route finding and PG rating and make the route better). Stay right on the face and look for gear placements rather than moving left to a large crack. A bolt protects a bulge. Continue up the face on good holds to a ledge and bolt anchors. 6 bolts + gear from small stoppers (DMM offsets and Wild Country Superlight Rocks work well) + cams (esp. Aliens) from small to 2.5".
Pitch 2: 5.8 40m ** Move up about 15m to a ledge where the terrain steepens. Continue directly up the face to the right of a prominent black streak, staying on solid rock and locating good cracks for gear placements to a belay ledge (a cleaner section to the right would be better climbing but might need bolts. Anchor bolts could also improve the route). Gear to 3".
Pitch 3: 5.8 35m Climb above the belay and angle rightward up broken rock to a comfortable ledge and a 2-bolt belay (the belay is about 20ft right of a large, detached block). With good route finding this section has good rock and good protection.
Pitch 4: 5.8 60m ** From the bolted belay ascend blocky, low 5th class terrain to low-angle terrain at the base of a wide overhang. A crack and large jugs make surmounting the overhang well-protected and low 5th class (optional gear belay here). Once above the overhang a smooth slab leads to the top. Continue straight up the slab finding good gear in the horizontal cracks. Near the top a single bolt protects moves to the 2-bolt anchor. Alternatively, work left from the belay and finish up the Banzai Escape route. Full route climbed 7/11/15 by John, Joel, Roger, that finished via the top slab.
 
50/50 II, 5.8 *This route ascends the lower, far right portion of the Central Buttress. Ascend the crack system just left of the Northern Dihedral for two pitches before traversing right to join MCR. An independent finish could continue up the edge of the dihedral to the top.
Pitch 1: 5.8 60m ** Ascend the crack system just left of the Northern Dihedral to a tree.
Pitch 2: Easy class 5. Continue up broken rock then move rightward to join MCR.