Elk Park Overlook

Elk Park Overlook includes several tiers of cliffs that lie south of the Main Wall. The Lower Tier is the most extensive and includes the Elk Park Buttress and the broad face that extends from the North Face of Elk Park Buttress over to the Main Wall. The Lower Tier faces eastward and gets afternoon shade while the Middle and Upper Tiers have a more southern exposure. The tiers are separated by grassy benches.

Lower Tier

This wall has a nice south-eastern exposure and a grassy bench below that makes for great cragging and a good introduction and warm-up for the longer routes.
 
 


Overview: The Tongue and rappel route

Elk Park Buttress

The base of the buttress includes a steep 30m wall that faces east and holds some excellent single pitch routes. The buttress is less steep above and continues 60m to a grassy bench. The face is bisected by a prominent black streak which marks the line of the classic Der Schwarze Spur (The Black Line). True Blonde, Iron Horse and Der Schwarze Spur share one set of bolt anchors that are directly above Der Schwarze Spur. Pinstripe and Right Flake share anchors to the right and require a 70m rope to lower. These anchors are 40m below bolt anchors at the top of the cliff. It is possible to rappel (35m) from the top of the cliff to the North Face anchors with a single 70m rope.







True Blonde-White, Tan Line-Red, Iron Horse-Pink, Der Schwarze Spur-Orange, Pinstripe-Yellow, Right Flake-Green, Climb Out-Blue

1. True Blonde 5.10- 20m *** The left-most line of bolts on the wall makes for a great warm-up. Climb the clean white face between two crack systems. Gear: An optional red alien (1") protects easy moves after the last bolt, bolt anchors. FA RH/Joel 8/2/14. Left-hand Trad Version: 5.10a 20m * (the original line with one bolt in place). Start 5ft left and place gear in the crack. Move left at the first bolt to the broken crack.Gear: 1-2 Red-yellow aliens, red alien, 2 1.5-2" cams.  FA 6/30/14 (Suzanne, Gretchen, Roger Singer, RH). 
2. Tan Line 5.10- 30m *** Start directly beneath the large roof left of the Der Schwarze Spur. Climb the face past three bolts to a stance under the overhang (horizontal cracks provide protection between the bolts and stay right at the third bolt). Move right on jugs through the overhang past 3 bolts then continue straight up to easier ground. Angle rightward to the chain anchors above Der Schwarze Spur. Gear: 6 bolts, small Aliens to 2”. (Aliens:Blue, Blue-green, green, yellow, red-yellow, red, orange, purple. Camalots: green, red substitute for larger Aliens). FA: Hari.
3. Iron Horse 5.10- 30m*** Start with technical moves past 2 bolts through polished gray rock toward overhangs above. Below the large overhang traverse rightward along a ramp with a crack. Turn the overhang protected by a single bolt and continue up easier vertical rock to the top. Gear: 3 bolts +  Cams from 3/4-2" (2 x  1.5") and stoppers. FA: 6/15/15 RH/Joel
4. Der Schwarze Spur 5.11- 30m **** Start directly below the prominent black streak near the middle of the wall. Place gear (optional yellow Alien) in a pocket to protect moderate moves to the first bolt. Climb through the bulge (crux) past 5 bolts. Gear protects easier climbing above on vertical rock with good holds. Two bolt anchor. 6 bolts + gear to 2”. (Aliens: yellow, yellow-green, green; DMM offset 9, red & green Camalots). FA Joel /RH 6/16/13. 
5. Pinstripe 5.10- 32m *** 5 ft. right of Der Schwarze Spur, start up easy ground to a concave face with a crack. Climb to the roof via the crack (1.5 and 2" Cams) which angles rightward to a bolt. Climb straight up the face to a bulge (crux) and intersect Right Flake at a block. Continue up Right Flake past two more bolts to the top. Gear 1.5 and 2” cams then 7 bolts to the chains. FA Joel/RH 10/20/2013. 
6. Right Flake 5.8 32m *** On the right side of the wall, scramble up easy class 5 about 20-25ft to the first bolt on the arête (from the right is easier and can be protected or more directly without gear). Continue up the left side of the arête to a prominent flake (2 bolts next to the flake are hidden from below). Move left along the flake and pull through the bulge above. Join Pinstripe here and continue on easier ground past 2 bolts to chain anchors (8 bolts to chains). A 60m rope does not quite reach the ledge for lowering. FA Joel /RH 6/9/2013.
7. North Face of Elk Park Buttress 5.11c 30m **** 
   

    

   Elk Park Buttress from the North

   
   Around the corner from Right Flake is a steep, polished face. This is one of the better pitches on the crag with continuous face climbing and a technical crux.  From the base of Right Flake scramble up about 10m to a ledge at the base of a large dihedral. Belay from here (optional blue-green Alien) and climb up the corner for about 5m above a large block. Optional gear to 1".  At the first bolt move left out of the dihedral and  follow a line of weakness past 8 bolts up the middle of the face to a rest. Continue up easier ground on the arête past 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A yellow and/or orange Alien avoids a 5m run-out on moderate ground. 10 bolts + 1-2 cams 0.75-1.5". Lowering with a 60m rope just reaches the ledge. FFA RH/Joel 8/2/14.
8. The Raven (North of Face EPB Direct Finish) 5.12b/c 30m **** After the crux of North Face of Elk Park Buttress stay on the face right of the arête. Make difficult moves past three bolts (8/26/17) to the anchors. 11 bolts + (red ultralight stopper and gray/red Alien). FA: Austin 10/8/17.
9. The Climb Out 5.0 60m Climb straight up from the chains above Right Flake. A single bolt protects a bulge about 30 ft up. Continue up to a bench then up a class 4 face and belay from bolt anchors. The 10m slab above the bench and to the right can be climbed at easy class 5 with  reasonable protection.

The Raven (12b/c)

Middle Tier

Several lines on excellent rock, about 60ft in length, and a full southern exposure would link the Lower and Upper Tiers.

Upper Tier




Elk Park Upper Tier (Yellow X=bolts needed, not placed)

Many short but excellent lines both crack and sport exist above a comfortable grassy bench. Faces south. Belay from trees.
Left Crack 5.10 13m *** Obvious splitter toward the left side of the tier. Gear to 2" include a blue-green Alien hybrid. Could place a 4 Camalot,  RH/Joel 10/19/14
Right Crack 5.8 13m * Ascend an overhanging crack to a right-facing dihedral. Gear to 2.5".
RH/Joel 10/19/14
Face 5.12 13m *** (project) A short, fierce route on the left side of a smooth gold wall. Needs 4-5 bolts.