Mavericks III 5.11 *** 160m/530ft

The first route to climb through this sector bottom to top.

 




Mavericks

Pitch 1: 5.9 ** 35m Start on a grassy ledge about 30 ft. left of the large dihedral system that defines the right side of the Southern Buttress. Ascend easy class 5 protected with good gear for about 30ft to a ledge and a bolt. Continue straight up the face on large holds  (5.7) to a smoother slab. Make several moves up the slab (5.9) to a small ledge and 2 bolt belay. 6 bolts + gear: 4-5 cams 1/2-2" ) FA RH/Joel 8/30/14. 








Joel on Pitch 2


Pitch 2: 5.11- 35m *** Traverse up and leftward across the slab past 3 bolts to the  left-facing dihedral (Idéfix). Continue up the dihedral past one bolt (crux) to the overhang. Traverse left to easier ground and then up and rightward to the WWL and a two-bolt anchor. 4 bolts + gear: small stoppers and cams especially Aliens green, green-yellow (just below the crux bulge), yellow, red, 1.5".  FA RH/John 9/20/14. 

Pitch 3: 5.11 50m *** Directly above the bolt anchors atop Pitch 2, 4 bolts protect the initial face (5.10+, a blue Alien can protect the moves to the first bolt). Easier ground leads to a thin crack angling rightward protected with small Aliens (Alien-hybrids are useful). Continue straight up into a dihedral protected by three bolts and an optional red Alien (crux). Continue up easier, somewhat run-out ground to a two-bolt anchor and a large ledge with a tree. Watch for loose rock on the ledges above the belay. Gear: 11 bolts + gear: Aliens from blue, including hybrids and cams 3/4, 1, 1.5, and 2.5". Can place a blue Camalot. FA Austin/Joel 9/20/14.


Pitch 4: 5.0 40m  Climb the middle of the face above the grassy ledge up clean rock to bolt anchors. These anchors provide a rappel route from the top of the Main Wall to the ledge system above the Wave Wall. Better alternative finishes are possible along the next tier (the Border Wall). From the top of Pitch 3 it is possible to walk over to the base of Elk Park Buttress for another round of 5.11. FA 10/2/13.