Southern Buttress
This sector was the scene of a number of early ground-up routes at the River Crag leading up to the Wave Wall Ledge established by Joel Schiavone, Rob Middleton, et al .At far climber's left end, when hiking down from above as you drop into corridor w wall on left, 3 new lines TR'd by Wallace/Patz Aug '20. 5.11- to 12.
Y Cracks
A good trad line on the face left of the Southern Buttress. The route can be identified by a thin crack that splits off left and forms a Y about 40ft up.Pitch 1: 5.10-5.11- 35m *** A thin crack can be found along the base which angles up and right. A thin finger crack splits off leftward after about 40 ft. Gear to 3" including small stoppers. Gear belay on ledge above.
Pitch 2: Easy Class 5 60m. Continue on easy class 5 ground up and rightward avoiding loose rock and scramble up to trees and Class 1-2 ground to the top of the Wave Wall. Ascent 8/20/2016 Austin/RH.
(There are many potential 1-2 pitch routes along this section of the wall).
Wide Crack 5.8?
A distinctive 4-6” crack is encountered along the base of the wall and reportedly has been climbed by Joel and Chris-Anne.
Schiavone-Middleton 5.11 ~80m
Pitch 1: Ascend ledges to a dirty left-facing corner. Move up the corner past an old fixed pin and some questionable blocks to a ledge and a 3 bolt anchor (new bolt added 2018).
Pitch 2: Same start off the ledge as Jaws Pitch 2. Continue up and right into the crack system passing an old bolt off the ledge. This route probably worked leftward at some point from Jaws and continued up cracks and flakes to the ledge. Old bolt anchors are still on the ledge about 30ft below the Wave Wall Ledge (WWL).
This route was a ground-up first ascent and may still have some loose blocks.
FA: Joel & Rob years ago.
Asterix (the larger left dihedral) II 5.11+
Pitch 1: Ascend face to new (9/7/14) bolt anchors at the base of a prominent right-facing dihedral.
Pitch 2: Gain the dihedral from the right and ascend past a fixed (by a 20 ft fall) stopper to the WWL. FA Joel, et al years ago. A difficult direct start to the dihedral may need addition bolts.
Idéfix (the smaller right dihedral) II 5.11- ***
Joel originally led this pitch on-site sometime in the early 90's. He has subsequently cleaned some loose blocks, and vegetation and added a bolt at the crux that protects good moves on the face. There is also a new bolt above the overhang at the top. If you rappel in from the top, you can place an 8ft sling on the bolt that may help keep the rope off sharp edges as you traverse out left at the top. You cannot reach the top bolt from the route. A direct finish may be possible.
Pitch 1: Ascend face to bolt anchors as per Asterix. These anchors can also be reached by traversing left before the crux slab on the first pitch of Mavericks.
Pitch 2: Ascend the dihedral to the roof. The crux bulge is well protected with a bolt and climbs face holds on the right face. At the roof move leftward until able to move back right to the anchors. By not placing gear out left the second will be protected at the roof. FA Joel, et al early 90s. FA new version Joel/Austin 9/20/14
Schiavone-Middleton 5.11 ~80m
Pitch 1: Ascend ledges to a dirty left-facing corner. Move up the corner past an old fixed pin and some questionable blocks to a ledge and a 3 bolt anchor (new bolt added 2018).
Pitch 2: Same start off the ledge as Jaws Pitch 2. Continue up and right into the crack system passing an old bolt off the ledge. This route probably worked leftward at some point from Jaws and continued up cracks and flakes to the ledge. Old bolt anchors are still on the ledge about 30ft below the Wave Wall Ledge (WWL).
This route was a ground-up first ascent and may still have some loose blocks.
FA: Joel & Rob years ago.
Asterix (the larger left dihedral) II 5.11+
Pitch 1: Ascend face to new (9/7/14) bolt anchors at the base of a prominent right-facing dihedral.
Pitch 2: Gain the dihedral from the right and ascend past a fixed (by a 20 ft fall) stopper to the WWL. FA Joel, et al years ago. A difficult direct start to the dihedral may need addition bolts.
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| Joel approaching the crux on Idéfix |
Joel originally led this pitch on-site sometime in the early 90's. He has subsequently cleaned some loose blocks, and vegetation and added a bolt at the crux that protects good moves on the face. There is also a new bolt above the overhang at the top. If you rappel in from the top, you can place an 8ft sling on the bolt that may help keep the rope off sharp edges as you traverse out left at the top. You cannot reach the top bolt from the route. A direct finish may be possible.
Pitch 1: Ascend face to bolt anchors as per Asterix. These anchors can also be reached by traversing left before the crux slab on the first pitch of Mavericks.
Pitch 2: Ascend the dihedral to the roof. The crux bulge is well protected with a bolt and climbs face holds on the right face. At the roof move leftward until able to move back right to the anchors. By not placing gear out left the second will be protected at the roof. FA Joel, et al early 90s. FA new version Joel/Austin 9/20/14
Jaws, Endless Summer, & Mavericks start at Southern Buttress base (see below)
Wave Wall
The Wave Wall is the 50m smooth, imposing wall of excellent quartzite that sits atop the Southern Buttress. Access it from the Elk Park Buttress by hiking north through some aspens and up, this will put you on top of the Wave Wall. It holds some of the best and hardest pitches at the River Crag. There is a large ledge at the base of the wall with several large trees (The Wave Wall Ledge-WWL). It is possible to scramble off the WWL up a steep gully to the climber's left (Easy Class 5).Routes on the Wave Wall can be done as single pitch cragging, but several pitches here are part of multi-pitch lines that start from the ground (Jaws, Endless, Mavericks).
Pitches on Wave Wall from L to R: Jaws (p4), The Cleanup Set, The Wave, located at the top of the wall is Crest (could be a finish for Cleanup, The Wave, or Wave Wall Triple), Endless Summer (p4), Mavericks (p3), G-Land, and Don't Bail, Grab Rail.
Jaws p4, 5.11b, 45m **** The furthest left bolted line on the Wave Wall. Start about 25' left of Wave Wall Original Route at a large tree. Ascend moderate terrain to a steep face with 2 bolts just left of a hollow block/crack. Ascend the face (first crux) to a ledge. Follow the zig-zag crack up the smooth, golden wall (crux moves are on the face just above the crack).
Above the crack there are two options to finish:
1. Stay leftward around the final overhanging bulge to a jug (bolt protection to here). Continue up the crack (5.8, needs gear to avoid a 20ft runout). 13 bolts + cams: 1" (Red Alien), 2"(Red Camalot) RH/Austin 10/13/18.
2. Climb straight up through the final overhanging bulge (5.11) to easier ground. Above the overhang there is adequate protection: blue-green, yellow, red, Aliens, Green Camalot. Bolt anchors. RH/Austin 6/21/19.
The Cleanup Set 5.12a/b, 50m **** Start 10 ft right of the large tree at the base of Jaws with thin, challenging moves off the ground. Continue up on excellent rock through a gold face (11+/12-) to a rest stance at the base of the overhanging headwall. 2 lines are above you. Cleanup on left goes straight up, Crest on right goes up and right.
The Wave (The Wave Wall Original Route) 5.12a, 30m **** This route brought in a new era of top-down route creation at the River Crag. From behind a tree that sits against the face, locate the first bolt (added 7/4/15) and ascend a thin crack (5.11) to a rest. Continue up the steep face above (crux) to a 2-bolt anchor in a wide groove. Gear (bottom: Aliens: blue, green; blue DMM offset stopper at top. Crux: gold DMM stopper, grey Alien + 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bolt anchors are in place at the top of the wall about 50m above the ledge (FA Joel).
Crest (Wave Wall Original Route Extension) 5.12+, 50m **** A direct finish above the Wave Wall anchors. From the top of the Wave Wall Original Route step up and traverse left to a dish. Look for a line of bolts up and right through the headwall to the top. 6 bolts if starting from The Wave anchors. FA: Kyle Edmondson 8/6/2015
1. Stay leftward around the final overhanging bulge to a jug (bolt protection to here). Continue up the crack (5.8, needs gear to avoid a 20ft runout). 13 bolts + cams: 1" (Red Alien), 2"(Red Camalot) RH/Austin 10/13/18.
2. Climb straight up through the final overhanging bulge (5.11) to easier ground. Above the overhang there is adequate protection: blue-green, yellow, red, Aliens, Green Camalot. Bolt anchors. RH/Austin 6/21/19.
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Move up and into the black crack and up onto the steep face and go slightly right at 3rd bolt (12a/b). Scramble runout easy terrain to anchor of Crest/Endless anchors. 13 bolts. FA: Austin 8/20.
FA via Crest (5.12+, 4 bolts) to anchors. 14 bolts. FA Austin 8/31/19.
FA via left 3 bolt finish (5.12a/b), 13 bolts. Austin 8/20
The Wave (The Wave Wall Original Route) 5.12a, 30m **** This route brought in a new era of top-down route creation at the River Crag. From behind a tree that sits against the face, locate the first bolt (added 7/4/15) and ascend a thin crack (5.11) to a rest. Continue up the steep face above (crux) to a 2-bolt anchor in a wide groove. Gear (bottom: Aliens: blue, green; blue DMM offset stopper at top. Crux: gold DMM stopper, grey Alien + 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bolt anchors are in place at the top of the wall about 50m above the ledge (FA Joel).
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| Kyle on Crest |
Wave Wall Triple Direct 5.12+, 50m ****(Project) Combines the crux of The Wave, the gold face of The Cleanup Set, and Crest. Start on the The Wave and climb that crux (5.12-). Above the crux clip a bolt and move left (rather than moving right to the anchors) and climb into the Cleanup Set at the gold face. At the dish, continue up the Crest (12+).
The Endless Summer 5.12b, p4, 45m, 18 bolts ****
Ascend the face (3 bolts, just right of the trees and wide crack and left of Mavericks to a ledge). Layback up a leftward leaning crack until able to move right onto the steep brown face. Continue up the face through an overhang (12-). Then move right and up through a gray bulge of polished rock on the arete (12), resist the urge to move right from the arete and away from the bolts, and then continue up the face above to the anchors. 18 bolts to 3 bolt anchor. FFA: Austin 10/22/18.
Kyle entering upper crux bulge on The Endless Summer
Mavericks p3, 5.11, 50m ****
4 bolts protect the initial face (5.10, a blue Alien can protect the moves to the first bolt). Easier ground leads to a thin crack angling rightward protected with small Aliens (Alien-hybrids are useful). Continue straight up into a dihedral protected by three bolts and an optional red Alien (crux). Continue up easier, somewhat run-out ground to a two-bolt anchor and a large ledge with a tree. Watch for loose rock on the ledges above the belay. Gear: 11 bolts + gear: Aliens from blue, including hybrids and cams 3/4, 1, 1.5, and 2.5". Can place a blue Camalot. FA Austin/Joel 9/20/14.
To access the following two routes downclimb 15' off the R end of WWL into a bowl with a 2 bolt anchor:
G-Land 5.12-, 55-60m **** An excellent long pitch, mostly 5.11 w a short 12- crux face. Climb directly up from the 2 bolt anchor past 4 bolts. Then step left and follow a discontinuous thin crack system, protecting w many finger sized pieces and RPs (5.11). After about 60' look for a bolt slightly left to mark a move left to the crux headwall. An awkward #2 Camalot protects the entry moves to the thin face crux, alternatively RPs can be found here, and then pass 1 final bolt. Save a 1" piece to protect the second. Runout up and left on 5.8 terrain to Mavericks anchor. 55-60m. 6 bolts, double cams up to 1.5", #2 Camalot, a few RPs are nice. FA Austin 9/20
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Don't Bail, Grab Rail, 5.12, 30m **** From the 2 bolt anchor, climb first 2 bolts of G-Land, then move right around the corner. A 1" piece can be found in the corner. Then move up the bolted face above. Around bolts 6-7 there are great rails and edges on the face, try to avoid using the dirty crack system off route to right. Move through the overhang on small edges (crux, 12b/c), one of which is often wet. Now scramble up to find a ramp leading up and right to a flat ledge. Build an anchor at the flat ledge w 1 - 1.5" cams. 30m to this ledge. 9 bolts plus cams. FA Austin 9/20  |
ROUTES STARTING FROM THE SOUTHERN BUTTRESS BASE From the Wave Wall Ledge, rap to the ground by first accessing the 2 bolt anchor about 15' below the WWL (used as anchor for p2 of Endless and Jaws). You can rap to the ground from this anchor in 2 raps with a 70m rope (a 60m would NOT make it). The first rap w a 70 is a rope stretcher, swing climber's left to 3 bolt Jaws anchor atop p1. Then a shorter rap to ground. You can also rap the Endless Summer but use directionals to keep yourself close in to wall or risk hanging in space. Once at the base, the routes from L to R are Jaws, Endless Summer, Mavericks Jaws, 5.11 155m/500ft ****. Gear: blue-green, yellow & red Aliens, green, red & gold camalots, minimum of 13 draws.Can be approached from the top of the Wave Wall: 60m rap down the Wave Wall and about 10m below the Wave Wall Ledge to anchors for Pitch 2. 35m rope stretcher to Pitch 1. 25m to the base.  Pitch 1: 5.11- 25m *** From the sloping ramp at the base of the Southern Buttress, about 30ft. right of a wide crack, find a steep, bolt-protected face, step right at top to a ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. 7 bolts. Pitch 2: 5.11a 35m **** Move a few feet right off the belay past an old bolt and angle right up flakes to the base of an overhang (4 bolts + red Alien, yellow Alien). Place gear (gold Camalot) at the top of the crack and pull straight through the overhang (crux) on positive holds and onto the slab above. Continue up the bolt-protected slab to a ledge and a 2 Bolt-anchor. 9 bolts + gear. RH/Austin 6/21/19 Pitch 3: 5.6 10m You could link this w p2. Continue up a corner/crack to the Wave Wall Ledge. Gear. Tree anchor (could combine pitch 2-3 but better able to see/communicate from the lower ledge). Pitch 4: 5.11 45m **** See wave wall above Pitch 5: 5.9 40m*** From the large ledge above the Wave Wall ascend a clean bolt-protected slab to a broken area. Place a green Camalot for the second. Continue up and rightward over broken ground to bolt-anchors (in situ). 6 bolts. RH/AFW 11/10/18. |
The Endless Summer 5.12b, 120m ****
The start is about 20ft right of Jaws Pitch 1. FFA full route Austin 8/2/19.
Pitch 1: 5.10+ 30m ** From the ramp at the base of the Southern Buttress, start directly below the large dihedral (Asterix) with 5.8 climbing (pass 2 bolts, can place optional gear) to a ledge at the base of a steep face (place a 1.5" cam). Ascend the steep face past 3 bolts directly below the dihedral at 5.10+. 5 bolts + yellow, red and orange Aliens. 2 bolt anchor. RH/Austin 8/2/19.
Pitch 2: 5.12a 30m **** Move up from the ledge and move left across the face on thin balancey moves (5.12- , an easier variation (11) climbs above the first bolt then moves left but makes the 2nd clip difficult). Continue through 2 overhangs above and onto the slab (5.12-). Continue directly up the slab (20 ft. run-out-can place 1-3" pieces) to the anchors for Jaws Pitch 2. 8/2/19 Austin.
Pitch 3 5.6 10m : You could link this w p2. Ascend the face directly above the anchors or join Pitch 3 of Jaws to the Wave Wall Ledge.
Pitch 4: 5.12b 45m **** Ascend the face (3 bolts, just right of the trees and wide crack and left of Mavericks to a ledge). Layback up a leftward leaning crack until able to move right onto the steep brown face. Continue up the face through an overhang (12-). Then move right and up through a gray bulge of polished rock on the arete (12), resist the urge to move right from the arete and away from the bolts, and then continue up the face above to the anchors. 18 bolts to 3 bolt anchor. FFA: Austin 10/22/18.
Pitch 1: 5.9 ** 35m Start on a grassy ledge about 30 ft left of the large dihedral system that defines the right side of the Southern Buttress. Ascend easy class 5 protected with good gear for about 30ft to a ledge and a bolt. Continue straight up the face on large holds (5.7) to a smoother slab. Make several moves up the slab (5.9) to a small ledge and 2 bolt belay. 6 bolts + gear: 4-5 cams 1/2-2" ) FA RH/Joel 8/30/14.
Alternatively, traverse up and left to a two-bolt belay at the base of the Idéfix dihedral then continue the second pitch up Idéfix to the WWL. FA Joel/Austin 9/20/14.
Pitch 2: 5.11- 35m *** Traverse up and leftward past 3 bolts to the Idéfix dihedral (5.10) to just below the crux of Idéfix. Continue up Idéfix to the WWL and a two-bolt anchor. 4 bolts + gear: small stoppers and cams especially Aliens green, green-yellow(just below the crux bulge), yellow, red, 1.5". FA RH/John 9/20/14.
Pitch 2 possible alternative: Climb directly up the face above the second bolt trending right and through the right side of the overhang above. Cleaned up it is probably at least 5.12+. There is a single bolt at the top of the climb as a directional to avoid sharp edges.
Pitch 2 escape: 5.9 Not recommended. Climb the short corner above and right from the belay. Move carefully around a huge block and up the overhanging crack to the WWL. RH/John 9/20/14
Pitch 3: 5.11 50m *** Directly above the bolt anchors atop Pitch 2, 4 bolts protect the initial face (5.10, a blue Alien can protect the moves to the first bolt). Easier ground leads to a thin crack angling rightward protected with small Aliens (Alien-hybrids are useful). Continue straight up into a dihedral protected by three bolts and an optional red Alien (crux). Continue up easier, somewhat run-out ground to a two-bolt anchor and a large ledge with a tree. Watch for loose rock on the ledges above the belay. Gear: 11 bolts + gear: Aliens from blue, including hybrids and cams 3/4, 1, 1.5, and 2.5". Can place a blue Camalot. FA Austin/Joel 9/20/14.
Pitch 4: 5.0 40m Climb the middle of the face above the grassy ledge up clean rock to bolt anchors. These anchors provide a rappel route from the top of the Main Wall to the ledge system above the Wave Wall. Better alternative finishes are possible along the next tier. From the top of Pitch 3 it is possible to walk over to the base of Elk Park Buttress for another round of 5.11. FA 10/2/13.
The start is about 20ft right of Jaws Pitch 1. FFA full route Austin 8/2/19.
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| Red=The Endless Summer |
Pitch 2: 5.12a 30m **** Move up from the ledge and move left across the face on thin balancey moves (5.12- , an easier variation (11) climbs above the first bolt then moves left but makes the 2nd clip difficult). Continue through 2 overhangs above and onto the slab (5.12-). Continue directly up the slab (20 ft. run-out-can place 1-3" pieces) to the anchors for Jaws Pitch 2. 8/2/19 Austin.
Pitch 3 5.6 10m : You could link this w p2. Ascend the face directly above the anchors or join Pitch 3 of Jaws to the Wave Wall Ledge.
Pitch 4: 5.12b 45m **** Ascend the face (3 bolts, just right of the trees and wide crack and left of Mavericks to a ledge). Layback up a leftward leaning crack until able to move right onto the steep brown face. Continue up the face through an overhang (12-). Then move right and up through a gray bulge of polished rock on the arete (12), resist the urge to move right from the arete and away from the bolts, and then continue up the face above to the anchors. 18 bolts to 3 bolt anchor. FFA: Austin 10/22/18.
Mavericks 5.11, 160m *** The first route to climb through this sector bottom to top.
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| The Southern Buttress |
Pitch 1: 5.9 ** 35m Start on a grassy ledge about 30 ft left of the large dihedral system that defines the right side of the Southern Buttress. Ascend easy class 5 protected with good gear for about 30ft to a ledge and a bolt. Continue straight up the face on large holds (5.7) to a smoother slab. Make several moves up the slab (5.9) to a small ledge and 2 bolt belay. 6 bolts + gear: 4-5 cams 1/2-2" ) FA RH/Joel 8/30/14.
Alternatively, traverse up and left to a two-bolt belay at the base of the Idéfix dihedral then continue the second pitch up Idéfix to the WWL. FA Joel/Austin 9/20/14.
Pitch 2: 5.11- 35m *** Traverse up and leftward past 3 bolts to the Idéfix dihedral (5.10) to just below the crux of Idéfix. Continue up Idéfix to the WWL and a two-bolt anchor. 4 bolts + gear: small stoppers and cams especially Aliens green, green-yellow(just below the crux bulge), yellow, red, 1.5". FA RH/John 9/20/14.
Pitch 2 possible alternative: Climb directly up the face above the second bolt trending right and through the right side of the overhang above. Cleaned up it is probably at least 5.12+. There is a single bolt at the top of the climb as a directional to avoid sharp edges.
Pitch 2 escape: 5.9 Not recommended. Climb the short corner above and right from the belay. Move carefully around a huge block and up the overhanging crack to the WWL. RH/John 9/20/14
Pitch 3: 5.11 50m *** Directly above the bolt anchors atop Pitch 2, 4 bolts protect the initial face (5.10, a blue Alien can protect the moves to the first bolt). Easier ground leads to a thin crack angling rightward protected with small Aliens (Alien-hybrids are useful). Continue straight up into a dihedral protected by three bolts and an optional red Alien (crux). Continue up easier, somewhat run-out ground to a two-bolt anchor and a large ledge with a tree. Watch for loose rock on the ledges above the belay. Gear: 11 bolts + gear: Aliens from blue, including hybrids and cams 3/4, 1, 1.5, and 2.5". Can place a blue Camalot. FA Austin/Joel 9/20/14.
Pitch 4: 5.0 40m Climb the middle of the face above the grassy ledge up clean rock to bolt anchors. These anchors provide a rappel route from the top of the Main Wall to the ledge system above the Wave Wall. Better alternative finishes are possible along the next tier. From the top of Pitch 3 it is possible to walk over to the base of Elk Park Buttress for another round of 5.11. FA 10/2/13.
THE BORDER WALL
Sits atop the Wave Wall and extends from Elk Park Buttress to the Main Wall. Many potential mostly moderate 1-2 pitch routes
The Tongue 5.8 100m
50 yards north of EPB a tongue of rock protrudes down into the brushy ledge. Start at the base of the tongue and stay left of the low angle grassy area at mid-height. The route has excellent rock and is generally clean (except loose rock approaching the grassy area at 50m - the original route stayed on clean rock left of the grassy area). Pro is adequate and offset aliens work well.
P1: 5.8 50m, start at base of tongue and ascend the low angle rib until it steepens. Move right around a bulge and continue up an easy groove to the right of the rib (we moved right at the bulge to find good pro and more moderate climbing. Climbing the bulge directly would be harder and better). Once on lower angle slabs below a large grassy area angle left to a belay w good 0.5 - 1" crack (left and just below the base of the grassy area).
P2: 5.7 50m, climb on the left side of the large grassy area and into a right facing dihedral (some loose rock). Continue up to an obvious thin crack (green-yellow aliens) to easier ground and belay around a block.
Walk off
Gear: small stoppers, aliens (blue to red, w doubles or offsets), Camalots green to gold
FA: Austin/RH 6/11/17
Jaws p5, 5.9, 40m ***
From the ledge atop Wave Wall, ascend a clean bolt protected slap to a broken area. Green Camalot for 2nd. Continue up and rightward over broken ground to 2 bolt anchor. 6 bolts and Camalot.
FA: RH/Austin 11/10/18
Mavericks p4, 5.0, 40m
Climb the middle of the face above the ledge to 2 bolt anchor
FA 10/2/13
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