Southern Dihedral Sector

South Slab

South Slab is a striking feature found to the right (north) of a large dirty dihedral on the right side of the Southern Buttress.

South Slab Direct II 5.10 175m ****
The first two pitches are excellent.

Pitch 1: 5.10+ 50m *** Climb directly up the center of the slab past 7 bolts. After the seventh bolt place gear in a thin crack to the right until it is possible to move left onto the face again.  Follow the line of bolts leftward and through the left side of the large overhangs above. Belay at a small stance with two bolts on the slabs just above the overhang. 13 bolts + gear small aliens green/blue, blue, red, red Camalot, #3 Wildcountry stopper. FA: JS, AFW, RH 10/15/14.

Pitch 2: 5.10 45m **** Continue up the slab and turn the first overhang to the right. Move up the steep face above (crux) past several bolts and around the left side of an overhanging bulge to a white slab. Continue up the polished slab above the overhang to easier ground  and chain anchors. 10 bolts + gear Aliens (green, yellow, orange) and other small cams and stoppers. FA: JS, AFW, RH 10/15/14.

From here you can:

1. Rap the route

2. Rap to the anchors for pitch 2 of Banzai

3. Climb out left up easy terrain to the top the Wave Wall

4. Finish directly up two easy trad pitches described below to the top.

Pitch 3: 5.8 40m Continue straight up above the belay on easy ground and follow an arete to a bulge. Surmount the bulge (crux) and find a gear belay. Caution: needs additional cleaning and belay anchor placement. AFW, RH 8/25/18 .

Pitch 4: 5.7 40m Continue up, angling rightward along the edge of the large dihedral that drops off to the right. Reach the top, place a directional and traverse to the bolt anchors above Banzai. Good protection: stoppers to 3". Caution: needs additional cleaning. AFW, RH 8/25/18 .

Variation Pitch 3: Move right into a large corner and follow a small, clean arete (needs bolts, 5.7) to the base of a smooth, steep face. Climb through the overhang and up the face (5.11+/12-). Needs bolts and anchors at the top of the buttress (worked with John 9/20/18). Another variation ascends the arete/slab left of the steep face 5.9.

Variation Pitch 4: From the top of the buttress ascend overhanging rock to the right of a mossy groove(5.12-) to easier ground above.

Southern Dihedral

Steve Sullivan Memorial Route (SSMR) II 5.10+ PG *** (Joel and Rob)

Right of the Southern Dihedral. One of the original ground-up explorations of this section. An old wire stamped with "JA" (Jeff Achey?) was found high up on the wall but details are lacking. The wire sits in residence at the top of Pitch 2.

Pitch 1: 5.7 ~20m Ascend broken rock to anchors below a small roof crack. (Gear +old fixed wire, knifeblade for belay).

Pitch 2: 5.10+ PG 60m *** An impressive lead in the day and remains a trad test-piece. Climb through the roof and up about 15 ft until able to traverse left on a ledge. Continue straight up discontinuous cracks and when possible move right into an easy but broken area past an old bolt and  up to a large sloping ledge and chain anchors. (Bolt anchor, old one now chopped).

Banzai III 5.10-5.11+ (200m/650 ft) **** This excellent route climbs the polished face between the prominent right-facing Southern Dihedral and the Central Buttress.  The route takes a more direct line than the SSMR through the lower slabs and adds additional pitches to reach the top of the wall.

Pitch 1 (John with Austin belaying)

Pitch 1: 5.10+ 35m *** The first pitch is located 10ft left of the initial easy corner of SSMR and can be identified by locating the bolts below the overhang which protect the polished slab. Start on good holds directly below a small dihedral which forms the right side of the lower polished slab. Gain the dihedral which provides some protection (gray and red Aliens & stoppers) then move left onto the polished slab. Three bolts protect 5.8 climbing up the slab and lead to a roof (optional 1.5” cam below roof). Turn the roof (2 bolts) and continue 20ft up a shallow crack (crux) to a small ledge (gear= yellow Alien and small (Superlight gold) offset stopper) and a 2-bolt belay-one bolt is a spinner and needs replacing (FA Joel/Roger 8/18/13).

Gretchen and Angie on Pitch 2

Pitch 2: 5.10- 40m *** Continue straight up from the belay initially but trend leftward to better cracks. Follow moderate but sustained, discontinuous cracks. Near the top of the slab stay on the face left of the broken area. Continue straight up past 4 bolts on good rock, avoiding loose rock on either side of the route, to chain anchors on a sloping ledge. Gear: Many Aliens (extra green-red), stoppers and cams to #2/Gold Camalot. Bolts were added 9/15/14 to protect the more direct finish.

Pitch 3: 5.10- 57m *** Locate the initial protection bolt on the wall directly above the sloping grassy ledge and additional bolts on the slab 25m above. Climb the amazing polished slab with bolt-protected cruxes and good protection between to a diagonaling ledge and a 2-bolt belay anchor. Gear up to a #3 Camalot including many small cams and wired stoppers, quick-draws for 6 bolts and some slings to reduce rope drag (FA: Joel and Roger 7/14/2013). There are several options from the top of the third pitch. The Pipeline Finish, Backdoor and the Escape Variation.

Options from the top of the third pitch. The Pipeline Finish, Backdoor and the Escape Variation. The Blue and Purple lines are not yet equipped.

Pipeline

A bold line through the middle of the amphitheater. Beware of large blocks and sharp edges.
Pitch 4: 5.7 15m Move left along the sloping ledge then ascend the slab past one bolt to a 2-bolt belay on a small ledge where the wall steepens.

Pitch 5:  5.11+/5.12- 35m ***  Climb through the overhanging wall above to 2-bolt belay above the overhang. 11 Bolts + a green then red-yellow Alien after crux at 7th bolt. Place long slings on 5th and 6th bolts (Joel RP 9/7/13).

Pitch 6: Class 4 10m Ascend easy ground to the top and a 2-bolt anchor.

Backdoor 
An easier option to the 4th and 5th pitches described above takes a direct line above the third pitch of Banzai through the headwall. A 70m rope is required to link the two pitches.
Pitch 4: 5.11b/c 45m ****  From the top of Pitch 3 of Banzai continue straight up the slab with good gear (gear 4-5 pieces 0.75, 1, 1.5, 2, 3") for about 15m to the vertical face above. Ascend the line of bolts between two large roofs. From underneath the right-hand roof begin the crux sequence (5.11) by making a difficult under-cling move with minimal feet to reach back leftward around the roof. Continue straight up through a couple of bulges (5.10) into a dihedral/crack and a small belay ledge with bolt anchors. 10 bolts plus a small amount of gear (gear noted above for the slab plus optional: gold and green Camalot). (FFA RH, Austin 6/22/14)
Pitch 5: 5.8 20m  Move straight up past a single bolt to easy ground above to the top ledge and bolt anchors.

Escape Variation

A nice alternative that avoids the headwall by climbing around to the right and joining the Central Buttress Route. Watch for loose rock on the traverse.
Pitch 4: 5.0 20m From the top of Pitch 3 of Banzai, traverse downward along the sloping ledge until able to traverse up across a corner to a bush. Climb past the bush and 10 ft up to a gear (1.5-2.5") belay at a large block (7/20/13 JS/RH). It is also possible to continue traversing up and right and finish with the final slab of the Northern Dihedral (5.9).

Pitch 5: 5.8 50m ** The last pitch of the Central Buttress. Climb directly above the belay to the top. Single rack to 3" (7/20/13 JS/RH).