This is probably the longest section of the cliff. This route was established ground-up with no fixed gear. Climb the slab right of the Northern Dihedral and through the overhangs which loom above. Gear to 3.5"'
Pitch 1: 5.9 50m ** Climb the polished slab with a large protruding block half way up. Ascend the face to a small, right-facing dihedral with a thin crack left of the block. Traverse rightward on the face above the block and below the short overhang until a belay stance is apparent
Pitch 2: 5.8-5.10- 70m ** Move leftward over the small overhang and up the smooth slab to a belay ledge. Difficulty depends on the line taken on the slab. Try to avoid the broken rock on the right.
Pitch 3: 5.8 50m ** Continue up the polished slab to the middle of the large overhang. A crack leads through the overhang to a small belay stance.
Pitch 4: 5.7 60m ** Climb steep rock with good holds and trend rightward to the rounded prow on the edge of the Northern Dihedral. Continue up the fun and well-protected face to the top.
Silver Star III, 5.11b/c ****
Pitch 1: 5.11a 50m *** A direct variation to Pitch 1 MCR. Begin the first pitch of MCR. At the top of the dihedral continue straight over the roof and up the polished face past three bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.11b/c 45m *** Climb straight above the belay toward the apex of the slab above. Angle leftward along horizontal cracks. Locate bolts on the smoothest section of slab high (about 35m) on the face. Climb past 3 bolts (crux) to a small ledge and 2 bolt anchor about 10m below the overhangs above. There are several alternatives to continue up. The original route traversed rightward (Class 4, 20m) and continued up Ubermensch to the top (Tim Kuss, Joel, RH 9/13/15).
Pitch 3: 5.8 50m ** Continue straight up a steep face avoiding loose blocks and traverse left. Climb through the overhang above via a horizontal crack to a gear belay below the final polished slab gear to 3", FA RH/John 8/10/2016). Alternatively, continue straight above the belay and finish via the original MCR route.
Pitch 4: 5.9 60m *** The top slab has clean, excellent rock. Climb straight up, placing gear in horizontal cracks for 30+m past one bolt to a 2-bolt anchor. (Gear: Many Aliens including Hybrids, cams to 2.5", stoppers, one bolt) (Joel/Roger 9/7/2013).
Ubermensch gear list: red alien, Gold Camalot, Gray DMM offset, Red DMM offset, red superlight, #4? brass offset, (black and blue/black can also fit) yellow alien, +/- small offset.
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