The North Slabs Area encompasses the expanse of rock north of the Northern Dihedral to a large gully that defines the northern-most aspect of the Crag. Various trad lines have been climbed over the years but few details are available. The steep Lower North Wall lies below a broad, treed ledge that forms the base of the North Slabs. The initial 30-40m 75 degree wall above the ledge is the Outward Bound Wall. The area was used by Outward Bound for top roping in years past. A few rusty pitons can still be found along the ledge above the wall.
Near Miss III, 5.9 ~200m ** (Graham and Roger 8/22/10)
This
ground-up exploratory route was perhaps the first (in modern history) to ascend the entire
Main Wall. Pitches 1 and 4 are both good but the middle pitches are not
as good. Beware of loose blocks on the middle pitches.Pitch 1: 5.8 50m **. Climb the center of three cracks on the steep wall north of the Northern Dihedral to a ledge with gear for the belay. Gear to 3.5"
Pitch 2: Low class 5, 60m. Ascend up then right through blocky, low-angle terrain to a belay ledge below a steep smooth wall (needs to be cleaned of blocks). This is the ledge below Ubermensch.
Pitch 3: Low class 5 30m. Skirt right around the steep wall and up to a ledge below a polished slab.
Pitch 4: 5.9 40m ** Start up the slab directly below a large dihedral that cuts through the top of the slab. Gain the dihedral and follow it rightward until easy class 5 climbing leads to the top.
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| John on Ubermensch 5.11- 2010 |
Pitch 1: 5.11 b/c 20m **** Locate the distinctive smooth wall above the second pitch of Near Miss. Climb the thin crack on its left side. Gear: Wild Country 3 & 4 stoppers, Aliens: black, blue, green, yellow, gray (7/8), red-yellow, red and one 3" (gold Camalot). Bolt anchors. (This pitch can be reached from the top of the second pitch of MCR by traversing up and right on easy ledges).
Pitch 2: 5.10a 50m *** This pitch starts about 20ft right of Pitch 4 of Near Miss, crosses Near Miss at the base of a large low-angle dihedral and shares the top anchors. It is a more interesting direct line up the slab. Climb the slab past a single bolt (about 25ft up) into an obvious small dihedral (5.9-5.10-). Ascend the dihedral but move left onto the face before reaching a large wedged block at the top of the dihedral. Another bolt (added 9/12/15) protects a few moves to the base of a large dihedral (Near Miss intersects here). Continue straight up a shallow arete to a steep face above. Continue straight up the face (5.8) past three bolts (added 9/12/15) into a right-facing corner to the cliff top. Gear: Stoppers + double cams from 1/2 to 2.5". Bolt anchors.
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| Upper Northern Slabs Ubermensch (red), Blue Angel (blue), Astroanimas Pitch 6 (purple) |
Choujin I, 5.11+/5.12- A crack/face line on the north-facing wall left (south) of the top pitch of Near Miss/Ubermensch. Joel and Hiroki 10/17/15.
An excellent outing and one of the best multi-pitch link-ups at the Crag. Several purely trad lines have been climbed in the area but may have some loose blocks. The line described has generally been cleared of blocks, has good anchors and is well protected. The route starts near the river level and ascends the Lower North Wall, Outward Bound Wall and then a long easy pitch to a belay below a series of large overhangs that break up the smooth slabs above. The route continues directly through a series of roofs to the top of the cliff. The base can be reached by walking to the bottom of the North Wall or by making three 60-70m rappels down to the bottom of the North Slabs and a 35m rap to the base of the North Wall. Anchors are in place for six 30-35m rappels from the top of Pitch 6 (a 70m rope is needed). The first rappel is about 20m and angles significantly skier's left to the anchors on top of Pitch 6 which cannot be seen from above. It is also possible to walk to the anchors atop Pitch 6. FA: Austin (led crux pitches)/RH 9/4/2016
Pitch 1: The Lower North Wall-Gold Star (5.11c, 37m ****) See description below.
A short walk up and rightward through trees leads to a broad face with multiple lines for the second pitch (Outward Bound Wall).
Pitch 2: OB One (5.10-, 30m, ***) See description below.
Original (easy class 5): From the top of The Outward Bound Wall scramble down and left (south) across the ledge and then ascend a grassy Class 3-4 ramp and easy Class 5 terrain on good, solid rock below the polished slabs. A short, easy simul-climb may be needed with a 60m rope. A number of options up the slabs exist to the right. A set of bolt anchors are located about 60m from the belay and about 50m below a large 60 degree overhang. FA: RH/John 8/9/16
The Traverse Pitch: A better variation (5.8). Instead of dropping down to the grassy ramp, traverse leftward and upward from the belay along horizontal cracks staying on excellent, clean rock above the 4th class terrain described above. Join the original route in the wide dihedral just below the anchors. Gear to 2". Austin/RH 9/2/17.
Pitch 4: 5.11b 25m ***The Slab Pitch. Ascend the smooth slab directly above the anchors past three bolts-crux. Continue straight up to horizontal cracks and move through a small overhang. A bolt protects the moves onto the slab above. Continue up the slab to a grassy ledge. Bolt anchors are in place on the left side of the ledge. 4 bolts + gear to 2". FA Austin/RH 9/4/2016. An alternative is to skip the crux roof pitch by continuing above the middle of the grassy ledge and bypass the large overhang on the right (there is one protection bolt on the slab below the roof). Above the overhang traverse back left to bolt anchors and Pitch 6. 5.9 60m Gear to 2" (7/2/17 RH/AW).
The Roof Pitch.
From the left side of the ledge ascend a polished slab (5.11) to the
roof (we placed a bomber gray-yellow or red-yellow Alien at the roof). Climb directly
through the large roof-crux (one bolt) 5.12a or 5.11 A0. Continue 20ft
on easy ground to a ledge and bolt anchors. 3 bolts + blue or blue/green, red-yellow and
orange Aliens) FA: Austin 9/4/2016Pitch 6: 5.11c 35m+ ****
The Dihedral Pitch. This is a phenomenal pitch with perfect rock and a fantastic position. Start at a grassy ledge at the base of the slab below the triple overhangs (2 bolt anchors with rings).
Ascend the first right-facing dihedral on the left side of the polished slab (not the large corner further left). Pass two horizontal overhangs (5.11-). Gear: 3 bolts, Red or Gold Camalot, orange Alien/Green Camalot protect the dihedral. Move right and ascend the overhanging head-wall above past 2 bolts (crux 5.11c).
Once above the crux, place a yellow Alien and continue straight up the vertical face on solid rock rather than moving left to easy but potentially loose ground.Continue straight up to a shallow open book (gear to 2" including a red Alien near the top) to a small ledge just below a large sloping ledge with 2 bolt anchors with rings. It is a rope-stretcher 35m rappel from here to the anchors below.
Gear: 2 each: green,yellow,red,orange Aliens, Red Camalot (or substitute offset Aliens (blue-green, green-yellow, yellow-red). FA: Austin, RH 6/12/16. It is possible to move left along a crack to easy ground just before the crux but beware of loose rock.
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| The Dihedral Pitch |
Pitch 7: 5.10, 20m, **
A short, clean face up and left past one bolt has a move or two of 5.10 and leads to tree or bolt anchors at the top. Can protect the 2nd with a green Camalot just above the crux. Could be combined with Pitch 6 if rope drag isn't too bad. FA: Austin, RH 6/12/16
The easiest walk off from here is to continue straight up about 50ft to a 15ft high overhanging rock alcove, traverse right about 50 ft then switchback left along a ledge across broken ground.
Pass underneath a polished slab and continue up and left to meet the usual upper approach route to Banzai.
Outward Bound Wall
OB One (5.10-, 30m, ***)
This route lies between a prominent black streak and a large tree on the ledge above. It is marked by a low bolt and four bolts high on the wall above. Good gear is found in the cracks between the bolts. 5 bolts + Gear: Small Aliens to 1.5" and stoppers (10 offset). Bolt anchors are on the ledge above. FA RH/John 8/9/16. Alternative pitches are possible.
Lower North Wall
This lowest tier sits just above the river below the Outward Bound Wall at about 9,000 ft. Many potential routes exist, both face and crack. Some have probably been climbed or top-roped. A route was established by Joel and Chris-Anne in the day.
Gold Star 5.11b/c 35m ****
An excellent pitch up the prominent gold face in the middle of the wall. Bolt anchors are in place on a ledge about 15ft below trees. From the bolts rap in 35m to a nice grassy ledge about 10-15 ft. above the ground or walk around to the base of the wall. The line ascends the face just right of the prominent prow and is excellent. The start is a little vegetated and can be wet in early season for about 20ft but is moderate, well protected and climbs cleanly. Above the rock is steep and clean. Climb through a small roof and up the vertical face to a large flake. Clip a bolt out left then move left and make difficult moves up the bulge (5.11). Alternatively, climb directly above the flake on good holds and traverse back left below a tiny tree (5.10-). A slightly run-out but easy section leads to a steep, gold face. The seam in the gold face is the crux (5.11+) and leads to a traverse right to a final tricky bulge. 14 bolts + 1" (red Alien) and 2" (red Camalot). The crux top face can be avoided by moving left into a dihedral crack. FA Austin/RH 8/20/2016.
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| Austin on Pitch 1 (Gold Star) |
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