Jaws III, 5.11- 155m/500ft ****


Jaws is an excellent, well-protected route.

Approach: From the top of the Wave Wall a 60m rap reaches about 10m below the Wave Wall Ledge to anchors for Pitch 2. 35m rope stretcher to Pitch 1. 25m to the base.

Gear: blue-green, yellow & red Aliens, green, red & gold Camalots, minimum of 13 draws. 

Pitch 1: 5.11a 25m *** From the sloping ramp at the base of the Southern Buttress, about 30ft. right of a wide crack, find a steep, bolt-protected face. Climb the face to a ledge with a 3-bolt anchor. 7 bolts. FFA RH/AFW/JCS 6/23/19.

Pitch 2: 5.11a 35m **** Move a few feet right off the belay past an old bolt and angle right up flakes to the base of an overhang (4 bolts + red Alien, yellow Alien). Place gear (gold Camalot or hang 4ft sling on bolt at the roof on the way down) at the top of the crack and pull straight through the overhang (crux) on positive holds and onto the slab above. Continue up the bolt-protected slab to a ledge and a 2 bolt-anchor. 9 bolts + gear. RH/AFW 6/21/19

Pitch 3: 5.6 10m Continue up a corner/crack to the Wave Wall Ledge. Gear. Tree anchor (can combine pitch 2-3 but better able to see/communicate from the lower ledge).

Pitch 4: 5.11b/c 45m **** The furthest left bolted line on the Wave Wall. Start about 20ft left of Wave Wall Original Route at a large tree. Ascend moderate terrain to a steep face with 2 bolts just left of a hollow block/crack. Ascend the face (first crux) to a ledge. Follow the zigzag crack up the smooth, golden wall (crux moves are on the face just above the crack). Above the crack there are two options:
1. Stay leftward around the final overhanging bulge to a jug (bolt protection to here). Continue up the crack (5.8, needs gear to avoid a 20ft runout). 13 bolts + cams: 1" (Red Alien), 2"(Red Camalot)  RH/AFW 10/13/18.
2. Climb straight up through the final overhanging bulge (5.11-) to easier (5.8) ground. Above the overhang there is adequate protection: blue-green, yellow, red, Aliens, Green Camalot. Bolt Anchors.  RH/AFW 6/21/19.

Pitch 5: 5.9 40m*** From the large ledge above the Wave Wall ascend the clean bolt-protected face to a broken area. Place a green Camalot for the second. Continue up and rightward for about 20m over broken ground to bolt anchors. 6 bolts. RH/AFW 11/10/18.

FFA whole route 6/23/19 AFW/JCS/RPH

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