New Route Lower North Wall

Gold Star 5.11c/d 35m ****
An excellent pitch up the prominent gold face in the middle of the wall. Rap in 35m to a nice grassy ledge about 10-15 ft. above the ground or walk around to the base of the wall. The line ascends the face just right of the prominent prow and is excellent. The start is a little vegetated and can be wet in early season for about 20ft but is moderate, well protected and climbs cleanly. Above the rock is steep and clean. Climb through a small roof and up the vertical face to a large flake. Clip a bolt out left then move left and make difficult moves up the bulge (5.11). Alternatively, climb directly above the flake on good holds and traverse back left below a tiny tree (5.10-). A slightly run-out but easy section leads to a steep, gold face. The seam in the gold face is the crux (5.11 c/d) and leads to a traverse right to a final tricky bulge. 14 bolts + 1" (red Alien) and  2" (red Camalot). The crux top face can be avoided by moving left into a dihedral crack. FA Austin/RH 8/20/2016.