Outward Bound Wall

7/17/16 New anchors on the ledge above Outward Bound Wall. New pitch bolted on Outward Bound Wall. New anchors allow a rappel down the North Slabs area: 35m, 60m, 60-70m.

New lines established 6/12/16

1). Top 2 pitches of the North Slabs Route
Pitch 5: 5.11b **** 35m. Ascends through the triple overhangs north of the Ubermensch slab.
Pitch 6: 5.10 20m A short pitch to the top.

2). Blue Angel: 5.11a **** 55m. Ascends the smoothest section of the face right of the second pitch of Ubermensch.

Elk Park Buttress 4/24/16

Post-season

Pulled all the gear out for winter. Minimal snow on the trail and climbing in the sun would have been great today.

2015 Season Summary

1. Established top anchors on Backdoor
2. Added anchor bolt to Der Schwartz Spur
3. New line between True Blonde and DSS.
4. Established multi-pitch line on Central Buttress
5. New 2 pitch direct line on MCR
6. New Wave Wall finish (bolted 7/11) Climbed by Kyle.
7. Added bolts to top pitch of Ubermensch
8. Big Link-ups 10-13 pitches
9. New line Uber Sector- Choujin

Last climbing 10/17/2015 this year?

New line established

10/17/15: Joel and Hiroki established a new 5.11+/5.12- line (Choujin) on the north-facing wall adjacent to the top pitch of Ubermensch.

9/19/15 Main Wall Linkup 13 pitches, V 5.11c, 2000ft

1. Central Buttress 1: 5.9 (RAP) 60m
2. South Slab Direct 1: 5.10+, 50m
3. South Slab Direct 2: 5.10b, 45m
4. Banzai 3: 5.10b, 57m
5. Banzai 4: 5.11c, 60m (RAP Banzai)
6. Banzai 1: 5.10+, 35m
7. Banzai 2: 5.10a, 35m (RAP)
8. Central Buttress 1: 5.9 (RAP) 60m
9. MCR Direct 1: 5.11a, 50m
10. MCR Direct 2: 5.11c, 55m
11. Traverse Class 4,  20m
12. Ubermensch 1: 5.11c, 20m
13. Ubermensch 2: 5.10a, 60m

 Austin/Roger 15.5 hrs car-car. Finished last pitch by headlamp.

Linkup of Main Wall Classic Pitches: 14 pitches, V, 5.11c, ~670m/~2200ft

1. South Slab Direct 1: 5.10+, 50m
2. South Slab Direct 2: 5.10b, 45m (RAP to bottom of Banzai)
3. Banzai 1: 5.10c, 35m
4. Banzai 2: 5.10a, 35m
5. Banzai 3: 5.10b, 57m
6. Banzai 4: 5.11c, 60m (RAP Banzai)
7. Mavericks 1: 5.9, 35m
8. Mavericks 2: 5.11b, 35m
9. Mavericks 3: 5.11b, 50m (RAP Mavericks)
10. Central Buttress 1: 5.9 (RAP) 60m
11. MCR Direct 1: 5.11a, 50m
12. MCR Direct 2: 5.11c, 55m (~20m traverse to Ubermensch)
13. Ubermensch 1: 5.11c, 20m
14. Ubermensch 2: 5.10a, 60m

New direct line for first 2 pitches of MCR. Tim gets first onsight of Ubermensch.

Gretchen and Angie send Banzai

Crest 5.13 Sent by Kyle 8/6/15

Kyle on Crest (photo:Joel)

Wave Wall

Work on the Wave Wall Finish begins with a strong red-point attempt by Kyle. Looks like a probable 5.13-.

Joel on The North Face of Elk Park Buttress 5.11c

Climbed all 7 Elk Park Buttress routes.

2015 Projects

1. Establish top anchors on Backdoor
2. Add anchor bolt to Der Schwartz Spur
3. Bolt line between True Blonde and DSS.
4. Establish multi-pitch line on Central Buttress
5. Add a complete line between Mavericks and South Slab (Black Line)
6. Establish a finish to Southern Slab through the Headwall
7. Establish multi-pitch line on the Outward Bound Wall and Northern Slabs
8. Direct line on Magic Carpet Ride and connect to Ubermensch
9. RP Wave Wall finish (bolted 7/11) Climbed by Kyle.
10. Mavericks direct 2nd pitch
11. Direct finish to North Face of EPB
12.  Add bolts to top pitch of Ubermensch

First day at the River Crag 6/7/15

Climbed 5 routes on Elk Park Buttress. Perfect except for a little rain and hail! The rock dries quickly though.

The left line on Elk Park Buttress makes for a sweet warm-up.

Sitting out the thunderstorm

First Big Snow

First snow this weekend. Probably done for the year at the River Crag.

Link-up of South Slab Direct and Banzai via Backdoor

Joel on Pitch 3 of Banzai

Starting to get a little chilly in the shade.

Joel on 5.10 crack line

New 5.10  trad  route on Upper Tier of Elk Park Overlook.
After a foray on Backdoor, we did some nice, sunny cragging on the Upper Tier. Two new crack lines and two new TR on sport lines. The crag is only 40ft high but has excellent rock and a full southern exposure.

Joel on FA South Slab Direct 10/15/2014

South Slab Direct (temporary name)  5.10+/5.11- 2 pitches **** 95m established 10/15/2014 by Austin, Joel and Roger. Excellent! Will have 2-3 more pitches next year through the headwall.
The 2014 new-routing season is coming to a close. 9 new pitches were established this year: Stuck in the Middle 5.10 and The North Face of Elk Park Buttress 5.11b on Elk Park Overlook; Backdoor 5.11b above the third pitch of Banzai; a re-vamped Idefix Dihedral; The 3 pitch Mavericks III 5.11b **** which incorporates a variation to Idefix for it's second pitch. There are now over 45 established pitches and 4 independent multi-pitch lines that ascend the Main Wall. Another incredible year at the River Crag.

The 4 pitch line Mavericks, 5.11b/c established via the new and improved Idefix Dihedral. By Joel and Austin 9/20/14.