Gold Star 5.11c/d 35m ****
An excellent pitch up the prominent gold face in the middle of the wall.
Rap in 35m to a nice grassy ledge about 10-15 ft. above the ground or
walk around to the base of the wall. The line ascends the face just
right of the prominent prow and is
excellent. The start is a little vegetated and can be wet in early
season for about 20ft but is
moderate, well protected and climbs cleanly. Above the rock is steep and
clean. Climb through a small roof and up the vertical face to a large
flake. Clip a bolt out left then move left and make difficult moves up
the bulge
(5.11). Alternatively, climb directly above the flake on good holds and
traverse back left below a tiny tree (5.10-). A slightly run-out but
easy section leads to a steep, gold face. The seam in the gold face
is the crux (5.11 c/d) and leads to a traverse right to a final tricky
bulge. 14 bolts + 1" (red Alien) and 2" (red Camalot). The crux top
face can be avoided by moving left into a dihedral crack. FA Austin/RH
8/20/2016.
Sunday, August 21, 2016
Thursday, August 11, 2016
New Line via North Slabs 8/9/16
New pitches climbed with John:
- Outward Bound Wall 1: 5.10, 30m ***, 4 bolts + gear to 2" to bolt anchors
- North Slabs Approach: Easy Class 5, gear to 2", 70m to bolt anchors.
- Up the corner and face to the Ubermensch Ledge, 5.7-8, 70m, ** gear to 2".
- Blue Angel to the top.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)