Friday, September 9, 2016

Astroanimas FA 9/4/16

Austin Pitch 1 5.11c
Austin Pitch 2 5.10a
The Slab Pitch 4 5.11b
Austin on The Roof Pitch 5 5.12a
The Dihedral Pitch 6 5.11c

Sunday, August 21, 2016

New Route Lower North Wall

Gold Star 5.11c/d 35m ****
An excellent pitch up the prominent gold face in the middle of the wall. Rap in 35m to a nice grassy ledge about 10-15 ft. above the ground or walk around to the base of the wall. The line ascends the face just right of the prominent prow and is excellent. The start is a little vegetated and can be wet in early season for about 20ft but is moderate, well protected and climbs cleanly. Above the rock is steep and clean. Climb through a small roof and up the vertical face to a large flake. Clip a bolt out left then move left and make difficult moves up the bulge (5.11). Alternatively, climb directly above the flake on good holds and traverse back left below a tiny tree (5.10-). A slightly run-out but easy section leads to a steep, gold face. The seam in the gold face is the crux (5.11 c/d) and leads to a traverse right to a final tricky bulge. 14 bolts + 1" (red Alien) and  2" (red Camalot). The crux top face can be avoided by moving left into a dihedral crack. FA Austin/RH 8/20/2016.

Thursday, August 11, 2016

New Line via North Slabs 8/9/16

New pitches climbed with John:
  1. Outward Bound Wall 1: 5.10, 30m ***, 4 bolts + gear to 2" to bolt anchors
  2. North Slabs Approach: Easy Class 5, gear to 2", 70m to bolt anchors.
  3. Up the corner and face to the Ubermensch Ledge, 5.7-8, 70m, ** gear to 2".
  4. Blue Angel to the top.

Monday, July 18, 2016

Outward Bound Wall

7/17/16 New anchors on the ledge above Outward Bound Wall. New pitch bolted on Outward Bound Wall. New anchors allow a rappel down the North Slabs area: 35m, 60m, 60-70m.

Wednesday, June 15, 2016

New lines established 6/12/16

1). Top 2 pitches of the North Slabs Route
Pitch 5: 5.11b **** 35m. Ascends through the triple overhangs north of the Ubermensch slab.
Pitch 6: 5.10 20m A short pitch to the top.

2). Blue Angel: 5.11a **** 55m. Ascends the smoothest section of the face right of the second pitch of Ubermensch.