Little Turk

Austin TR at the Riverside Wall. 13b route up the face RP by Mike Patz 8/16/20

2019 Season Summary

Several excellent new routes completed on the Wave Wall and Southern Buttress.

• All Jaws pitches were climbed free.
• A new line on the Wave Wall between the Original Route and Jaws RP by Austin:"The Cleanup Set" including the 2nd RP of "The Crest" headwall, 12+.
• The hardest link-up variation on the Wave Wall will be climbing the Original Route past the crux, moving left to the Cleanup Set and then finishing the Crest Headwall.
• Bottom 2 pitches of The Endless Summer added (10+ and 12-).
• Banzai via the Backdoor has guano on holds approaching the crux and at the top that needs cleaning up.
• A difficult line left of the second pitch of South Slab Direct was explored on TR seemed to be in the 12 range.

The Endless Summer 5.12b

Austin approaching the first crux of a new line-"The Cleanup Set" on the Wave Wall

RP sent 8/31/19. 5.12

The Endless Summer 5.12b/c 120m/400ft ****

8/2/19: FFA Pitch 1, Austin FFA Pitch 2 & RP Pitch 3.

FFA Jaws III 5.11b/c 5 pitches 6/23/19 AFW/JCS/RPH

Austin on P1 5.11a

Approaching the crux roof  on Jaws P2 5.11-

FA of the direct finish on P4 5.11-

Austin on P5 5.9

Austin over the crux on Jaws Pitch 2

 

Last day at the River Crag 2018.

Jaws 4-5 Pitches. 5.11- 500ft ****

Ready to go for 2019

The Endless Summer 5.12, 45m **** The Wave Wall

Austin on the second crux during the
first red point attempt (one hang) 10/13/2018.
Red-point 10/22/2018.

New Line on The Wave Wall: Jaws 5.11-, 40m ****10/13/18

13 bolts + 1" & 2" cams
There was nearly a foot of snow at Molas but none at the Wave Wall.

Austin putting in a new line at The Wave Wall

Direct Finish NFEPB, "The Raven"

10/8/17: Austin redpointed the Direct Finish to the North Face of Elk Park Buttress. The Raven, 5.12b/c

New variation to third pitch of Astroanimas

A new third pitch was added to Astroanimas that avoids the scrambling 4th class sections of the route. The more direct line angles up and leftward from the 2nd belay anchors traversing across the clean slabs staying above the 4th class ledges until just below the anchors atop Pitch 3. 5.8 70m Gear to 2".

John on Tan Line 8/26/17

Austin's ARC shot

Astroanimas FA 9/4/16

Austin Pitch 1 5.11c

Austin Pitch 2 5.10a

The Slab Pitch 4 5.11b

Austin on The Roof Pitch 5 5.12a

The Dihedral Pitch 6 5.11c

New Route Lower North Wall

Gold Star 5.11c/d 35m ****
An excellent pitch up the prominent gold face in the middle of the wall. Rap in 35m to a nice grassy ledge about 10-15 ft. above the ground or walk around to the base of the wall. The line ascends the face just right of the prominent prow and is excellent. The start is a little vegetated and can be wet in early season for about 20ft but is moderate, well protected and climbs cleanly. Above the rock is steep and clean. Climb through a small roof and up the vertical face to a large flake. Clip a bolt out left then move left and make difficult moves up the bulge (5.11). Alternatively, climb directly above the flake on good holds and traverse back left below a tiny tree (5.10-). A slightly run-out but easy section leads to a steep, gold face. The seam in the gold face is the crux (5.11 c/d) and leads to a traverse right to a final tricky bulge. 14 bolts + 1" (red Alien) and  2" (red Camalot). The crux top face can be avoided by moving left into a dihedral crack. FA Austin/RH 8/20/2016.

New Line via North Slabs 8/9/16

New pitches climbed with John:

1. Outward Bound Wall 1: 5.10, 30m ***, 4 bolts + gear to 2" to bolt anchors
2. North Slabs Approach: Easy Class 5, gear to 2", 70m to bolt anchors.
3. Up the corner and face to the Ubermensch Ledge, 5.7-8, 70m, ** gear to 2".
4. Blue Angel to the top.

Outward Bound Wall

7/17/16 New anchors on the ledge above Outward Bound Wall. New pitch bolted on Outward Bound Wall. New anchors allow a rappel down the North Slabs area: 35m, 60m, 60-70m.

New lines established 6/12/16

1). Top 2 pitches of the North Slabs Route
Pitch 5: 5.11b **** 35m. Ascends through the triple overhangs north of the Ubermensch slab.
Pitch 6: 5.10 20m A short pitch to the top.

2). Blue Angel: 5.11a **** 55m. Ascends the smoothest section of the face right of the second pitch of Ubermensch.